Making of Traditional Gharchola Sarees

Ale Rossi
3 min readFeb 17, 2021

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Indians are known for following their tradition, culture, and value system. Why not imply that in fashion and styling too! When talking about Indian culture, Traditional Indian Sarees need special mention. From time immemorial, the people of Rajasthan and Gujarat have given extra importance to a special fabric known as the Gharchola saree.

Wondering about what Gharchola is? How is it made? Why are Gharchola sarees important? Relax, all your questions will be answered here.

What is Gharchola?

An amalgamation of two words ‘ghar’ and ‘chola’, the literal meaning of Gharchola is the costume worn in the house. If considered separately, ‘ghar’ refers to the bride’s new house and ‘chola’ means the bride’s wedding ensemble. When the newly wed bride enters her marital place, she has to wear the Gharchola as a symbol bringing in good luck and blessings for everyone in the family. This piece of art is a blessing given by the Grooms parents to the bride which she has to take care for her life. Originally these Gharchola sarees were woven in real zari (pure gold plated silver) to increase the life of this traditional saree as this saree represents the blessing given by the in laws to the bride which stay with her even after their passing. This is the main reason why this Gharchola saree is worn for any major occasion and pujas.

Normally, the Gharchola saree is draped to cover the head and shoulder of the bride. Being an important piece in the wedding, the colors used in a Gharchola do not deviate from red, maroon, or green.

How is Gharchola Made?

Traditionally, handlooms are used for crafting the Gharcholas. Ventakgiri cotton is used to manufacture Gharchola sarees as they impart a lustrous finish. First, the fabric is woven followed by selecting colorful shiny threads for creating the checkered or grid pattern. The end portion of each zari is tied in such a manner so that it ensures one bandhani design in each grid. After the completion of bandhani motifs, the Gharchola is further decorated with other intricate designs and embroidery.

A specialty of Checkered Patterns

A unique trait of the Gharchola sarees is their arrangement of the grids throughout the saree. The three widely found patterns are:

  1. 9 squares
  2. 12 squares (bar bhag)
  3. 52 squares (bavan bhag)

The ‘tie and dye’ bandhani method is applied to each grid of the Gharchola. The commonly seen dot pattern in the bandhani fabric is present in every check all over the Gharchola. Finally, the fabric is dyed in red, maroon or scarlet.

Where Are Gharchola Sarees Manufactured?

Besides Khambhat, the Jamnagar in Gujarat manufactures Gharchola sarees. The quality of water in these places is apt for the coloring of these fabrics. In fact, when the red color is applied to the Gharcholas, the vibrancy of the color is enhanced due to the water quality.

For better weaving, two different threads are used. Zari is accumulated from Surat while the silk is acquired from Bangalore. The workers residing in the Kutch of Gujarat, lend their helping hand for creating the bandhani embellishments on the Gharcholu. However, Gharcholas differ from region to region. The style and taste of Gharcholas manufactured in Saurashtra is very different from the ones produced in the other regions of Gujarat.

Conclusion

Although a bridal attire, the prints, and patterns of Gharchola are now being used in several designer sarees. Such a beautiful traditional ensemble is a perfect go-to style statement for any occasion. Grab Gharchola sarees online soon.

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